How we spent two days in Isla Holbox

After spending two days in Valladoid, we drove to Chiquila to catch the ferry to Isla Holbox. This small island is where we spent our final 48 hours in Mexico.

How to get to Isla Holbox

Chiquila is a small town on the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula. As the main link to Holbox, the small town is very busy with cars and tourists making their way over to the island. 

There are plenty of coaches and tours that will take you to Chiquila. But since we were driving we left our car in one of the many car parks in Chiquila close to the Holbox Express ferry. There are a number of parking lots here, and we used Estacionamiento Cirilo's. Most charge in 24 hour blocks, and our car was well looked after there for the three days we were at Isla Holbox. 

We parked in the mid afternoon and caught the very first ferry leaving Holbox at 6:30am on the day we flew home. The ferry takes about 20 minutes each way and runs twice an hour both ways. 

Since there are no cars on the island, you will need to book a lift or walk to your accommodation. But the island is small and easy to get around on foot or by ATV.

The best places to eat and drink in Isla Holbox

Roots Pizzas

We queued for about 20 minutes for a table at Roots Pizza. But we were not disappointed – and with a beer to see us through the wait, it wasn’t a problem! This garden-style restaurant serves up some of the best pizzas on the island. And it’s easy to see why people are willing to wait a while to eat them.

The rustic pizzas are served to casual tables that are like up-turned kegs. Most of the restaurant is in a courtyard garden where live music plays most nights. The menu isn’t huge, but it’s all delicious.

If the lobster pizza is on the menu during your visit, you have to try it. There are also plenty of veggie options, and toppings that cater to different spice tolerances (which isn’t always the case at Mexican restaurants!)

Big Fish

In Holbox, seafood is a big deal. As a veggie I only usually allow myself a seafood dish if I’m near the sea and it’s fresh and locally caught. Which at Big Fish it is! The restaurant was newly opened when we visited and the service and food were excellent. 

From tostadas to ceviche to fresh, grilled fish, everything on the menu at Big Fish is prepared to perfection. As it was new, the menu was quite small when we visited. But the fish tacos, grilled sea bass, and polpo were all delicious.

Cenaduria La Tapatia

This gravel courtyard looks unassuming, but the tacos at Cenaduria La Tapatia are some of the best we had in Mexico. And definitely the best we had in Holbox. Pick from a menu, then go up to the bar and add your own toppings from a selection for salsas, salads, and fresh herbs. 

In a recent conversation about the best food we'd ever eaten, these tacos made the list. So if you’re on Holbox beach and need a delicious lunch that you’re not going to forget, wander here for unbeatable tacos, cold beers, and some much-needed shade.

Wayak Dreamy Food

Another new restaurant we tried in Holbox was Wayak Dreamy Food. A rooftop brunch spot that serves smoothies, gourmet cuisine, and waffles, and everything in between.

I had a vegan sandwich, green smoothie, and iced coffee here which was all delicious. But relaxing in the shade of their rooftop was an enjoyable experience all in itself. The staff were friendly and helpful, and the decor was reminiscent of the Tulum boho vibe without feeling too overbearing. If you want a laid-back brunch or lunch in Holbox, don’t miss Wayak.

Things to do in Isla Holbox

Holbox Beach

The main thing to do in Holbox is hit the beach. And that’s what we did during the day throughout our stay. Our Airbnb was about 10 minutes walk from the main strip and we were always able to find a fairly peaceful spot. Holbox beach really does feel like you’re in a tropical paradise... Because you are. Even the sargassum couldn’t put us off this beach with its clear blue sea, white sand, and glorious sunshine 

There are a number of beaches down the north coast of Holbox. If sunbathing isn't your thing, you can join kite surfing schools, try scuba diving lessons, and rent your own surfboards and other gear for ocean sports. But we preferred lazing on sun loungers, drinking ice-cold beers from the beach bar, and eating mango topped with spicy tajin seasoning (which we immediately bought a bottle of when we arrived home!)

A Bioluminescence Tour

For our last night in Isla Holbox we booked a bioluminescence tour. Bioluminescence is best viewed at the darkest hour of night, which means the timings of the tours vary depending on the moon phase.

We were there under a full moon which meant our tour began at 4am. And while it’s definitely worth getting up that early for, it was a lot to fit in right before catching the 6.30am ferry! 

Would I recommend the tour? Yes. Would I recommend doing it on your last night on the island? No. 

On the tour, you are taken into the water on a dark beach. You could do it yourself. But having a tour guide and the right kit (which was dropped to our Airbnb during the day) definitely added to the experience.

To find out more about bioluminescence in Holbox and the tours on offer, read my blog:  Bioluminescence tours in Isla Holbox: are they worth it?