How we spent three days in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is the capital city in Mexico's state of the same name. The region is well known as one of the best foodie destinations in the world thanks to its agricultural history. From mezcal to chocolate to unique Mexican dishes, the main things to do in the town is eat and drink… And that’s pretty much how we spent our three days there.

We didn’t get to travel around the state. Alhough I’d have loved to see Puerto Escondido. But we just didn’t have enough time in Mexico to do everything we wanted.

So this is how we spent our three days in Oaxaca.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

In Oaxaca City we stayed in Boulenc Bed and Bread, a boutique hotel sat above the best bakery in the city. It’s possible to find some fairly cheap accommodation in Oaxaca, but we forked out a little more to stay here and it was worth it.

As well as a beautiful bedroom with a cave-like shower, it has a rooftop and bar. Bookings also includes a free breakfast and afternoon tapas bar every day. The bakery and cafe downstairs is very popular. So it often has a long queue for seats. This mean it was even better to experience the artisan foods from our private roof terrace!

Things to do in Oaxaca

Though quite a small city and very laid back, there is always something happening in Oaxaca. Our time there felt like being in a week-long fiesta of samba bands and wedding parades. Just stepping out of your hotel in Oaxaca will present you with something new to see or get involved in.

Xochimilco

Xochimilco means ‘place where the flowers go’ in Aztec language, which is why the interesting name is so common in cities throughout Mexico. Located just behind the hospital, it’s an affluent area only a short walk from the city centre. The walls here are brightly painted and often adorned with street art. And the roads are lined with flowers, bunting, and flags. It’s peaceful and there are a few family run cafes and bars where you can stop for snacks between exploring.

Jalatlaco

Another district just next to the city centre, Jalatlaco is so well known for its brightly painted walls and colonial buildings. It's a residential neighbourhood that's a popular spot on a number of walking tours

. However, we went alone and wandered the streets for a short while on a hot afternoon. It was relaxed and quiet, and perfect for passing a couple of hours and taking photos in between more eating and drinking.

Mercado 20 de Novembre

There are a number of traditional markets in Oaxaca city centre. But the most famous is Mercado 20 de Novembre. Next to the Zocalo, or main square, it's a busy covered market selling fresh produce, flowers, spices, and Oaxacan cuisine.

Jardin Ednobotanico Santo Domingo

We went to the Oaxaca botanical garden one morning in an attempt to catch one of the first of the hourly walking tours. During our trip, you could only access the garden to join a walking tour. Because of this there were limited spaces, and each tour left on the hour every hour.

Ours was hosted by one of the men responsible for getting the army barracks off the land, and repurposing the old monastery as a place that honours the culture and nature of Oaxaca. It’s a long and fascinating history… And one which made our hour-long tour run closer to 2.5 hours.

The passion of our tour guide was understandable – he had a deep personal history with the region and had personally fought for the protection of this land. However, the 15 minutes spent talking about the corn grown here did get a bit much!

The plus side of having to take part in a tour is that, since there are no signs around the garden, it’s the only way to learn about the history of the space and the plants. The downside is that you are at the mercy of your guide if they take a deep dive into each and every plant. So although it's interesting, in the midday Oaxacan sun, it’s tiring too!

That said, there is time to wander sections on your own. Also, the garden itself is beautiful. But remember to check the tour times during your visit. Because tours are separated into language groups which run at different times on different days.

Eat out!

Oaxaca is one of the best places to eat out in the world: it's a true foodie haven. Because the culture of growing, preparing, cooking, and sharing food in this region is inherent to its culture. So the only problem you'll have finding good food here is making the decision on which of the hundreds of restaurants, cafes, and street food vendors to choose from.

To help you whittle it down, read my blog: The best places to eat and drink in Oaxaca.