How we spent a week in Buenos Aires
We visited Buenos Aires as part of eight weeks of travelling through Chile and Argentina. We spent a full week in the city to make sure we have a chance to explore plenty of neighbourhoods and still fit in some popular day trips.
I had heard constantly how much Buenos Aires is like European cities but, being European, I wasn’t convinced I’d see the resemblance. But I was wrong! Although in many ways Argentina does have a distinctly South American feel to it, it does have a far more European vibe than Mexico City, Bogotá, or Santiago. This is partly owing to the large population of immigrants from Italy and other parts of Europe, whose culture feels very present in the city. But also, the streets and buildings are hugely reminiscent of Europe.
I loved Buenos Aires and am so glad we allowed ourselves a full week in the city. This is what you need to know if you’re planning your own trip…
How to get to Buenos Aires?
Buenos Aires has two airports on opposite sides of the city. Between them, you can fly in from almost anywhere. We were already in Argentina, in Patagonia, so we took a direct domestic flight from El Calafate to Buenos Aires. But you can also fly directly from most major cities including London airports.
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
The most popular areas for tourists to stay in in the Buenos area are Palermo, Recoletta, Monserrat, and San Telmo. Each neighbourhood offers its own unique charm. Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood feel modern and vibey with lots of bars and restaurants. Recoleta is a bit more upmarket and Montserrat has an inner-city feel. And San Telmo has a little more edge and, to me, looked and felt a lot more like a European city.
We split our time between San Telmo (Viajero Hostel) and Palermo (Casa Caravan) which worked perfect for us as we were able to experience two sides of the city. I loved both neighbourhoods and didn’t prefer one to the other, but the vibes were very distinct. Palmero is leafy and green with easy access to nearby parks, and great nightlife. San Telmo has a more central feel, and is within walking distance to Puerto Madero, the obelisk, Teatro Colon and other sites in the Microcentro area.
If you have enough time to split your trip across two neighbourhoods I’d recommend this. If not, go for Palermo or Recoleta if you prefer something more polished, and San Telmo or Montserrat for something a little rougher around the edges (but still perfectly safe!)
Wherever you stay, you should definitely still visit the other areas to get a full feel for the city and its diversity.
Is Buenos Aires safe?
Like any major city, Buenos Aires has rougher areas and plenty of petty crimes so tourists need to be sensible and keep their belongings close. It’s best not to walk through ‘worse’ neighbourhoods, especially at night. But at no point during my full week exploring different neighbourhoods in Bs As did I ever feel unsafe. We went out late at night, I ran alone in the parks, and never had a bad experience. That’s not to say it isn’t possible. But in general my experience of Buenos Aires was not that it is an unsafe city.
When to visit Buenos Aires
We visited Buenos Aires in March, which is the start of autumn. The weather was mostly warm and sunny, with some rain showers. The mornings tended to be very humid and if there was rain it didn’t last long. The temperature remained around the mid-20°cs and rarely dropped below 18-20°c at night. This is the perfect kind of temperature for exploring a city, for me.
For even warmer weather, visit between November and February. Or if you prefer cooler climates visit during Argentina’s autumn and winter from April to October.
How long to spend in Buenos Aires
We spent a week in Buenos Aires which gave us plenty of time to explore a city at a slower pace, and take day trips to Tigre and Uruguay.
You could spend less time here – five days would be fine, or even a long weekend if you’re happy to pack lots into a shorter time. But as I love to explore cities I was happy to have longer here.
The neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires have a distinct feel from one another and having a full week to explore meant we were able to get a feel for more of the city than we would have in 3-5 days.
The best things to do in Buenos Aires
As a capital city it goes without saying that there is no shortage of things to see and do in Buenos Aires. These were the highlights of our week in the Argentine capital:
San Telmo Market (especially on Sunday)
Puerto Madero
La Boca
Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada
The obelisk and Microcentro
Palmermo
Plaza Dorrego
Tango dinner shows
Teatro Colon
Tigre Delta
Jardín japonés
Floralis Genérica
Parque Tres de Febrero
Ecoparque
A day trip to Colonia del Sacramento
Eat and drink
Find out more about our favourite things to do in Buenos Aires here.
Where to eat and drink in Buenos Aires
There are endless amazing places to eat and drink in Buenos Aires but these were some of our favourites:
San Telmo Market
El Hornero de San Telmo
Santo Remedio
Punto Cafe
Cerveceria Patagonia
Green Eat
Pepia
Rita Dinamita
La Parri
Che Taco
El Gauchito
Freddo
Sifón Soderia
Lharmonie
Aurelia Cantina
Rebelión
Pani
Find out more about our favourite places to eat and drink in Buenos Aires here.
Is Buenos Aires expensive?
As far as South America goes, Buenos Aires is not that cheap. But it depends where you go and what you do. In San Telmo and Palermo food and drink wasn’t mega cheap but wasn’t that expensive either. However the economy and currency in Argentina is famously variable so you should check rates at the time of your trip. Many places will offer discounts if you pay in cash. During our visit this was only about 10-15% but it has been as much as 50% within the past few years!
What to pack for a week in Buenos Aires
We visited Buenos Aires in March and the weather was warm and mild with some rain and humidity. This is what I packed for a week in Buenos Aires in March:
Three t-shirts
Two vest tops
One jumper
Two light shirts
Two pairs of shorts
One dress
Two pairs of trousers
A pair of trainers
A pair of sandals
Sunglasses
A cap
Daily toiletries including SPF
Find my full packing list for three weeks in Argentina here.