How we spent eight days in Alberta, Canada

We flew into Calgary from Victoria, Vancouver Island to begin our week-long adventure in Alberta. We were stopping in Canmore, Banff, and Jasper and exploring the surrounding National Parks in an SUV hired at the airport.

Lots of people hire a car and drive the whole way to Vancouver. But this adds days to the trip, and car hire in Canada is not cheap. We had also repeatedly been told that the best drives are in the Canmore/Banff/Jasper area and that the route to Vancouver wasn’t as pretty. So we decided to maximise our time with internal flights. 

Where to stay in Alberta

Accommodation in Alberta is really expensive, and we struggled to find anywhere less than £200 per night. But the places we did stay, we loved.

• Basecamp Lodge, Canmore. This is in a great location in central Canmore. £1,000 for four nights.

• Aurum Lodge, Nordegg (between Banff and Jasper). These beautiful eco-chalets are on Lake Abraham and the in-house restaurant is incredible. £200 for one night.

• Becker’s Chalets, Jasper. These lake-side chalets feel less modern, but are more spacious than Aurum Lodge and have kitchenettes. £308 for two nights.

How to get around in Alberta

Unless you’re on a pre-booked coach trip, the best way to get around Alberta is by car. There are some areas, like Banff, with local public buses. But if you’re driving further afield, especially into the Kananaskis or Yoho National Park, then having a car is essential. 

We hired a car for about £350 for eight days, which wasn’t too bad compared to some options. We hired a ‘mini’ SUV (although it seemed like a full-sized one to me) from National at Calgary airport which was a very smooth and easy process. We dropped it back at the same location when we left Alberta, but there are also options to drop off at a different location with the same car rental agency.

The best things to see in Banff and Jasper

If you want a full itinerary and more information on the best things to do while you’re in Alberta, then read on. But if you’re just looking for a quick list of some of the top spots, then these were our Banff and Jasper highlights.

• Lake Louise and the Little Beehive Loop Hike

• Lake Moraine

• Grassi Lakes hike

• Bow Lake

• Peyto Lake

• Wilcox Pass hike and Athabasca Glacier

• Upper Kananaskis Lake

• Ptarmigan Cirque

• Blackshale Creek Suspension Bridge

• Yoho National Park

• Banff Gondola and Sulphur Mountain

• Emerald Lake 

• Natural Bridge 

• Mistaya Canyon

• Howse River Lookout

• Takakkaw Falls 

• Wapta Falls

• Abraham Lake

• Sunwapta Fall

• Athabasca Falls

• Maligne Lake

• Medicine Lake

• Beauvert Lake

• Jasper

• Canmore River Trail

Where to eat and drink in Banff and Jasper

• Where the Buffalo Roam, Canmore. Great food and cocktails.

• The Local, Canmore. Good casual food and beer.

• Ankor, Canmore. Amazing, Michelin-level food and drink.

• Blake Restaurant and Brewhouse, Canmore. A popular, laid-back spot.

• Rocky Mountain Bagels, Canmore. Quick, easy, and great quality.

• Golden Peaks Restaurant, Nordegg. Amazing restaurant at Aurum Lodge.

• Bear’s Paw Bakery, Jasper. Great selection of drinks, sandwiches, and pastries.

Canmore

We decided to stay in Canmore as it was cheaper and a little quieter than the very touristy Banff. This turned out to be a great decision for us as we loved the laid-back feel of the town and all the local bars and restaurants it had to offer. 

Canmore River Trail

One of the highlights of staying in Canmore was spending an afternoon wandering along the Bow River. There are a few trails you can take in town, and we followed the river out and back for about an hour. The walk was quiet and relaxing, and there were lots of locals chilling out next to (and in) the water on a Friday evening. 

Banff National Park

Banff National Park is the most popular, and therefore busiest, in this area. We were lucky to visit during a period where parks passes weren’t required, but the majority of the time it costs $11 per day per adult to enter. 

Lake Louise 

The best way to see Lake Louise and Lake Moraine in one day is to get a $15 shuttle ticket from the Lake Louise park and ride, which also includes a bus between the two lakes. You can book these in advance or 48 hours ahead of the date you want to visit. But they sell out fast so you need to be be online and logged in at 7am sharp to secure a place. 

If you miss the Parks Canada shuttle tickets, you can still get a shuttle with alternative companies that run very similar services in the area that run almost the same route. The only difference is that these services are no longer able to run directly between the two lakes. Instead, you have to go back to the park and ride to travel between the two, which adds a little (but not too much) time to you journey.

It takes about 15 min on the bus from Lake Louise park and ride to Lake Louise lakeside, and about 20-25 minutes from Lake Lousie or the park and ride to Lake Moraine. 

Little Beehive Loop Hike

We did the little beehive out and back trail at Lake Louise, which is about 10km and took 3 hours although our moving time was only 2 hours 15 minutes. We took a lot of photo stops and had a snack break at the Lake Agnes tea house (which doesn’t sell coffee!) as we weren’t in a rush to complete the hike. 

We arrived at about 8am and Lake Louise was already getting busy with tourists. There are quite a few hikes you can do here, including much longer loop walks. We wanted to see Lake Moraine on the same day so we opted for something shorter. The views from the top of Little Beehive are amazing, and you can stop at Mirror Lake and Lake Agnes along the way.

Find out more about our favourite hikes in Canada here.

Lake Moraine

Like Lake Louise, Moraine Lake has lots of different hiking options. But we were hired from Little Beehive (and a very early morning) so we just climbed the Rockpile and wandered along the shoreline for a while. 

The Rockpile walk (which literally is a rockpile that gives you an amazing view across the stunning blue water) takes less than 10 min to the top. The shoreline walk is as long as you want it to be. There are beaches along the lake, so we decided to spend some time relaxing there with a beer as it was a very hot day. 

Banff Gondola and Sulphur Mountain

We paid about $50 to catch the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain, which takes about 8 minutes. There’s a two-hour hike you can do, but it’s just through tall pines so there aren’t amazing views (our friends who did this said it wasn’t worth it!) But the one benefit of hiking up is that you do get a free Gondola back down.

During summer they have the sunset festival with live music from 6pm, and you can order food and drinks from one of three restaurants at varying degrees of fanciness. There’s a boardwalk that takes you to the summit of the mountain and has amazing views across the surrounding forests and the town of Banff. We stayed here for about 2 hours and were able to get the gondola back down without waiting until the time on our ticket. 

You can book your tickets for the Banff Gondola here.

The weather is liable to change very quickly at the top of the Rocky Mountains, so be prepared. It was beautiful sunshine when we arrived which turned into heavy rain out of nowhere. So pack a raincoat and jumper, even if you’re arriving in good weather.

Find our full packing list for two weeks in Canada here.

Bow Lake

Bow Lake is situated very close to Icefields Parkway, making it an easy place to stop as you’re driving through Banff National Park. It’s famous for it’s bright blue glacial water and is a beautiful place to stop for lunch. But it’s easy access does make it very very busy and the carpark can be frustrating to navigate!

Peyto Lake

Peyto Lake is 5 minutes up the road from Bow Lake, and is even busier. But it requires a 15 minute up-hill walk from the car park to reach the viewing platform. Despite all the people, it’s well worth the view when you get to the top. The water doesn’t even look real, it’s so blue. But you will have to wait a while (or sneak under the platform through the woods) to snap a photo that’s not full of people.

Mistaya Canyon

Mistaya Canyon is an amazing natural rock formation and waterfall that’s just off of Icefields Parkway. The walk is about 10 minutes from the car park and is fairly easy, although the ground is uneven with a lot of rocks and tree roots. If you’re passing through, it’s well worth the quick detour to check out the water raging through the canyon.

Howse River Lookout

This rest stop on the border of Alberta and British Columbia is a beautiful place to stop for lunch or even a dip in the river. We only stayed for about 10 minutes to break up our drive, but we loved the beautiful views across the water and how peaceful is was compared to the other, more touristy destinations we’d visited that day!

Kananaskis

Kananaskis is a favourite spot among locals as it’s not as busy as Banff National Park, but just as stunning. Even though Park Passes weren’t required during our visit, you always need a Kananaskis Conservation Pass, which costs $15.75 and can be paid for online. 

Upper Kananaskis Lake

Part of the shore of Upper Kananaskis Lake was closed due to bear sighting when we were visiting, so instead of hiking here we just sat on the beach and had lunch. It’s a beautiful and peaceful spot that was full of locals sailing and paddle boarding. But don’t be fooled by the inviting blue water – it’s freezing!

Ptarmigan Cirque

One hike that was open despite bear warnings was the Ptarmigan Cirque trail. This part-loop route took an hour and leads you up through forests into a wide open meadow among the mountains. It was fairly steep going up but overall was an easy walk and people of all ages were doing it while we were there.

Blackshale Creek Suspension Bridge

Blackshale Creek Suspension Bridge is a 15 minute uphill walk from the roadside car parking and, unlike many of Canada’s suspension bridges, it’s free. The walk is fairly easy, and as we drove along the gravel road close to the bridge we saw a grizzle bear eating from the bushes along the forest. 

Yoho National Park

Like the Kananaskis, Yoho National Park is often much quieter than Banff but there are still plenty of things to see and do here. 

Emerald Lake 

Emerald Lake is one of the most popular sights in Yoho. The car park was so busy that we had to park on the road and walk about 10 minutes to the lake. In fact, it was so busy here we decided to just stop for lunch by the shore rather than completing any of the loop walks that take you around the lake. But it was still very impressive to see and the scenery here is breathtaking.

Natural Bridge 

This natural rock formation crosses the Kicking Horse River. You only need about 15 minutes here, but it's an impressive sight that feels quite different to all the other lakes and waterfalls you’ll stop at in Alberta.

Takakkaw Falls 

The pounding water at Takakkaw Falls is both imposing and very cold! Even on a hot day, the wind it creates meant we needed jumpers and waterproofs as we got closer. The falls are huge, and they run down from a nearby glacier so it’s no surprise they’re cold. The walk from the carpark takes 10-20 minutes depending on how close you decide to get!

Wapta Falls

We hiked the 3-4km out-and-back trail to Wapta falls, which leads you through a peaceful forest to the massive waterfall. We only walked to the viewpoint, as we were trying to fit quite a lot into our day. This meant the whole walk took under an hour. But you can go down to the riverbed at the base of the waterfall, if you have more time to extend your hike. 

Jasper

Jasper town and the surrounding forests were badly damaged by wildfires in 2024, and in summer 2025 we could see evidence of the destruction. The forests we burned, but growing back, and work was underway to build the destroyed lots in the town. But it was still a lovely places to wander around, though it was probably much quieter than it has been in previous years.

Abraham Lake

We stayed at Aurum Lodge on the banks of Abraham Lake, which is a huge and beautiful body of water not far from Jasper. Canada has no shortage of options for watersports, so there were people hiking along the shore, paddle boarding, speed boating, and kayaking while we were there. 

Columbia Icefields

Driving along Icefields Parkway, even in summer, you’ll see a lot of glaciers in the mountains. One of the most iconic places to view them is from the Sky Walk at Columbia Icefield. This takes you over the Athabasca Glacier, one of the biggest in the area, and includes a tour with more information about the glaciers. 

You can book the Glacier and Sky Walk Tour here.

Wilcox Pass hike

Instead of going on the Icefields tour, we walked the 10km Wilcox Pass hike. This out-and-back route takes you through pine forests and mountain meadows, bringing you our with an incredible view over the Athabasca Glacier. I’m not always a fan of out-and-back routes, but as you head back into the forest, the view on your way back is actually very different on this hike which made it far more enjoyable. It took us about 3 hours including stops for photos and snacks. 

Athabasca Glacier

While you’re in the area, you can walk to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. You can also pay for tours that take you for walks or bus rides over the ice. But as you walk the 10-15 minutes right up to the point where the glacier turns to water, there are signs along the path saying how much the glacier has shrunk. 

Knowing that it shrinks at a rate of about 5m per year and has reduced by 2km in the past 50 years didn’t inspire me to want to be on it, probably damaging it further! But it was incredible to see. If you’re planning to walk to the toe of the glacier, bring layers. It was 30ºc on the day of our visit but the katabatic wind that’s created by the melting glacier is absolutely freezing.

Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls

Along the road towards Jasper you can easily stop in at both Sunwapta and Athabasca Falls. Both only take about 15 minutes and are very short walks from their respective car parks. 

Maligne Lake

When we were in Jasper, wildfires in the northwest were filling the air with cloud-cover and smoke so spending too much time outside wasn’t advisable. So the day we headed to Maline Lake we had thought about completing the 10km Bald Hills hike but instead we walked the shorter Moose Lake Loop. This took 45min with a stop at the lake, and was very easy and relaxing. We weren’t lucky enough to see a moose, but this is a great place for sightings!

Medicine Lake and Beauvert Lake

We also stopped for 10-15 minutes each at Medicine Lake and Beauvert Lake, but the views were much hazier than they would usually have been thanks to the wildfire smoke. At this point, we had seen so many lakes and been on so many hikes, that we were happy to choose some stops to complete quickly, and these two are perfect for that as they’re easily accessible from the road. 

Find out more about how we broke down each day in Banff and Jasper in our full Canadian itinerary here.

Note: I chose and paid for my Parks Canada bus pass and Banff Gondola ride independently. This post is not an advertorial and is a true reflection of my experience with these excursions or the Columbia Icefields Sky Walk. However, if you book yours through my Viator link, I might make a little bit of money through affiliation.